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I just had a visit from my cousin the other day who was having car problems. On a zero degree day she asked me to go and listen to a noise her car was making. I said sure no problem. I couldn’t do much because of the weather and that day I forgot my tool box. I usually never leave home with out them.



Well anyways just popping the hood and starting her car I heard a really bad grinding noise coming from one of the pulleys driven by her serpentine belt. Normally I would of pulled the belt off and manually spun all the pulleys until I found the one making the noise. But without the tools, I could only guess of where the noise was coming from, which was the compressor.



I advised her to get it to a shop and have it checked out ASAP.

She then told me I was right diagnosing the noisy compressor. She said the mechanic told her she needed a New compressor costing around $1,200.00.



I never bothered to ask her if she got a couple more estimates. In my opinion, they should of given her at least a few different options such as, by passing the compressor with a kit which would of cost her around a couple hundred dollars until she had the money saved up. Or, I was wondering if the compressor clutch, just needed replaced since that was where the noise was coming from.



I also wondered if they realized she was a single mother raising two children by herself ,couldn’t possibly come up with that amount of money all at once. I just only wished I was there to hear their sales pitch!



So if you can, ask about other options available and always get at least 2 other opinions!

Happy Driving!

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

Nearly all post 96 vehicles use a throttle position sensor.TPS sensors are normally mounted on the throttle body with the throttle plate shaft running into the sensor. As the gas pedal is pushed, the throttle plate opens, rotating the sensors internal variable resistor. Position Sensor varies (normally increasing), signaling the rate of throttle opening as well as throttle position. The computer uses this information to adjust fuel trim, which is the amount of time the injectors are open , delivering more fuel.


Most throttle position sensors have at least 3 wires. These are for a 5 volt reference, a return line and the actual TPS voltage line. With your own digital volt meter you can actually see the 5 volt reference change as you open and close the throttle shaft. This should be checked with the key on and engine off. Use and appropriate wiring diagram and always verify correct base voltage before sweeping the gas pedal. Any erratic dropping or spiking voltage indicates a concern. Remember to check and pierce the return wire and watch the voltage going back to the computer. You should also check while tapping and heating the sensor if you have a possible intermittent.

Possible symptoms of a faulty TP sensor include hesitation or stumble on acceleration or tip in, a dead spot in the throttle, rough idle or service engine soon light with related codes. Some older style throttle position sensor are adjustable, but most newer style sensors are fixed position. Base TPS voltage readings are critical for proper fuel trim operation so always use your scan tool or multimeter to check for a good setting. Like I said before, these can be purchased through Amazon on the Caracal Link to the right! A loosely mounted sensor will create erratic symptoms including rough idle, and hesitation so check this as well. If you are planning on doing some of this minor repair engine control system testing plan on purchasing your own Code reader, Digital multimeter and possibly your own scan tools from Amazon!



Happy driving!

Oxygen Sensors





It's rare that a repair for a check engine light can be fixed simply by resetting it or disconnecting the battery. The dreaded light will return! Don’t be mad however, the light is only the messenger. It is simply doing it’s very important job letting you know that your vehicle isn’t operating at top efficiency....and this is a good thing! But keep in mind like I said in my earlier post, Your car’s computer can still receive a false reading and turn on your “Service Engine Soon” light. But after resetting it with your Amazon Code Reader, if it returns, then you should have your car diagnosed at a repair shop.


The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), is not only for the vehicles emission system as some techs would have you believe. This light informs the operator when there is a problem anywhere in the vehicles Electronic Engine Control System. This system basically includes all sensors, solenoids, valves, actuators etc. that your vehicle needs to operate correctly. As I'm sure you’ve concluded, this system is huge, and can include both engine and transmission concerns.

This is where you come in! With only a few basic tools, a little patience and some mechanical aptitude you can pinpoint and repair most of these concerns yourself.



The next few Posts will include a quick review of how the most common Sensors can be reviewed, identified and possibly fixed!



I want to start of with the Oxygen Sensor. This Sensor reads the amount of unburned oxygen coming out of your exhaust pipe. The computer then uses this reading to balance the fuel mixture. As oxygen content in the exhaust increases (known as a lean condition) the sensors voltage reading decreases. This signals the computer to increase the amount of fuel the injectors are delivering. In turn the oxygen content in the exhaust decreases (known as a rich condition). The oxygen sensor voltage increases as a result of this richening, and the computer reacts by reducing fuel flow. As fuel quantity decreases we return to a lean mixture, and sensor voltage drops. This process repeats for as long as the engine is running. This continuous feedback loop is the heart of the fuel control system. If your car is running real bad such as a bad spark plug wire, this can affect the oxygen sensor reading going into a lean condition causing your light to come on! In this case, take your car to a mechanic. But if your car seems to be running smooth and your light comes on Then I would suggest using your Amazon Code Reader to clear the code and see if it comes on at a later date.



Now some people will retrieve an oxygen sensor code from their code readers and replace the one which showed up bad. Now 50% of the time this procedure will work and all you have to do is replace the sensor then turn off the light with your code reader and your car is fixed! But as I stated before, if the darn light comes back then go to your mechanic with your retrieved code and inform him you already replaced the oxygen sensor. That will save you money from being ripped off and your letting the mechanic know you have some knowledge of the problem at hand. He will then think twice about scamming you! It will also save you a couple hours worth of labor diagnostic time he will charge you. Oxygen Sensors should be changed out every 60 to 100,000 for better performance and increased gas mileage. After that amount of mileage your Oxygen sensors get slow and sluggish reporting inaccurate readings to your onboard computer.

latest photo of my turbo setup

Guys ,

Long time no post. Last night took a few photo of my turbo setup. You may find evo 4 radiator fan had been replaced my original radiator. And the evo radiator fan can help to save some space that allow to reroute the intercooler piping. And i also build a heat resist cover for the turbo unit to prevent heat splashing.





EVO 4 radiator fan






Diagnostic Code Reader
















I just found out Amazon.Comhttp://diagnosecarmisfires.com/ offers the public now their own pocket code readers! Let me tell you a little bit how these work and how these will save you money now and in the future!



Some shops charge over $200 to retrieve your code and then just turn off your "CHECK ENGINE OR SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT". That’s it! That simple. Now if you can buy your own pocket scanner and do it your self each time your “check engine light” comes on, you already did the work and you know what number code to give to the mechanic. You just saved $200! After you retrieve the code then you hit the reset button and the light goes off again. Its that simple.
The reason they charge you so much for this quick test is they invest 6 0r 7 thousand dollars in a expensive scanner which does the following and a lot more and they also have to pay the mechanic to perform this small procedure. Their scanners do the same thing as this pocket scanner as far as extracting a code and resetting it. So if you walk or call in your codes retrieved from your pocket scanner you save yourself some valuable time and a lot less worrying.
You will have an idea what is wrong before going to a mechanic, and avoid being ripped-off! If you do your own repairs, you can avoid buying costly parts you don't really need.


After reading out the error codes, you can use that information to fix your car and turn off the check-engine light easily using the ACTRON CP9125 POCKET SCAN CODE READER





After fixing the original cause of the problem, your car may still stay in "limp" mode. In other words, it won't run right because it still "remembers" the problem. Using the ACTRON CP9125 POCKET SCAN CODE READER

to clear the errors and the check-engine light restores the car to normal operation after carrying out your repairs.



If the light wont erase itself then you have what they refer to as a "hard code". And you should consult your nearest auto mechanic. A lot of times you will have an intermittent problem of which your cars computer will pick up and turn that light on unexpectedly. You can then erase it yourself and turn off the light. If the same code reappears within a few days then you should take your record of codes to the auto repair shop and discuss that code or codes with your auto mechanic. It’s the new way for a do it yourselfer to save money these days.

So click on the Amazon Link code I placed on this Post and get yours today! These little gadgets also makes great gifts for friends and family members who it seems are always having car problems! I have one in my own glove Box! These are great to have at your finger tips! HAPPY DRIVING!

Automotive Filters
















Filters: In order to keep your vehicle running and out of the automotive repair shops, have your filters checked regularly. Check your owners manuals for when its time to change them. If your like me, I sometimes forget to follow the directions because of so many maintance schedules they have out there.



I would say the most important filter to remember to change is the gas filter. I worked in a car dealership a few years and seen a car with only 14,000 miles come in and have a plugged up fuel filter! The gas filter can cause a lot of problems if not changed on a regular basis. For instance, power , performance, and bad gas mileage can and will occur. The worst thing that can happen is your car will not start. It can also cause premature fuel pump failure! The cars today average around $500 to $1,000 to change out a bad fuel pump which in most cases is located in your gas tank. The plugged up fuel filter will increase the amperage to the pump which gets hot and will go bad after awhile. So please have your fuel filter changed out at least every 15 to 20,000 miles to be on the safe side.



There isn’t a way to check them other than pulling them off and try to blow through them. I don’t recommend you doing this unless you want a mouthful of gas! You can expect to pay around $60 to have one replaced depending how hard they are to get to. Don’t forget there is also a filter,(sock) attached to your fuel pump located inside your gas tank. That one should only be changed when you are having your fuel pump replaced because of its location. Then of course your air filter should be changed out when ever it gets dirty. You can visually look at this and should be able to see light through it when holding it up to the sky. Most vehicles have an Mass Airflow sensor which can be disturbed if your air filter gets to dirty. And don’t forget your oil, transmission, and cabin filters also need to be changed! You can price these parts here on the right from AMAZON.COM PARTS FINDER!

I hope these tips on filters will help you keep your car on the road!

Traveling



Take your car to your regular mechanic's shop two weeks prior to your trip. Hopefully you have a regular mechanic that you know and trust. This should NOT be a quick-lube type place, but a full service repair shop or new car dealership. I personally would not want to test the workmanship of a new mechanic on a road trip with my family.

Two weeks prior? Definitely. Give your mechanic time to make necessary repairs, and some room for adjustments. If your mechanic finds problems and repairs parts on your vehicle, you will want a week or so "break in period" to test the fix(s) before you hit the road. In most cases, if anything goes wrong after major repairs, it will be in the first 100-200 miles. Give yourself enough time to feel confident that the repairs made will not be an issue as soon as you get outside your city limits. Keep all receipts just in case the part fails along the way, so you don’t have to buy it again.


Make sure that you have the following items in your car before you leave:
Flashlight, pen, paper, and disposable camera. Just in case of an accident, take lots of pictures of the scene, the other car involved (including license plate), the other driver , and anyone else in their car, etc. Take pictures of the road condition i.e. was it wet, was there an obstacle in the road that could have caused the accident, was it at a intersection with a stop sign or traffic light, if at night was it lit and well marked? Get business cards or contact information from anyone that could be a witness, and if at all possible get them to give their statement to the police officer at the scene. It seems that a few days after an accident the memory of small details becomes cloudy and unclear to some people, and in worst cases the story of how, where, and who was involved in the accident can become fabricated.

Take along some extra supplies that your car might need while on the road. A new bottle of anti-freeze, engine oil, and transmission fluid could really come in handy if a roadside emergency were to occur. A can of Fix-A- Flat, jumper cables, small box of tools including screw drivers, pliers, a few spare radiator hose clamps that you can get from your mechanic, roll of electrical tape, and a hand towel to wipe your hands should all be packed in your car. Fix-A-Flat should only be used in case of an emergency and not to be used just to add a small amount of air to the tires. Fix-A-Flat and other products like it require that the tire be removed from the wheel, and the product be removed from inside the tire and a permanent repair be preformed. Caution: Some tire sealants are flammable and all are very messy and sticky, so you will appreciate the towel to wipe off your hands. One more device for the more technical aspect of it would be a Test light to check your fuses. A Blown fuse can cause all kinds of problems! Such as fuel pump not working, headlight not working, dash lights not operating at night or your blinkers quit working etc.


A few recommendations that will aid in driver comfort are: Install new wiper blades and fill up the washer bottle with windshield washer solvent to help keep the windshield clean (seems wiper blades are never thought about unless it is raining). Bring along sunglasses, a few of your favorite music cd's or cassettes, wear comfortable clothes and shoes, and bring a jacket and rain gear just incase you have to be outside your vehicle for an emergency situation. A cell phone is a very helpful tool to have on your travels, but make sure you will have reception in the region you are traveling in, and don't forget the battery charger. Some cell phone companies offer roadside assistance for its customers, call your cell phone service provider and see if this service is offered. If you know where your going, find the number for a Tow truck driver and program it in your cell phone just in case.

Have your mechanic perform all regular scheduled maintenance on your car before you head off on your travels, and make sure to tell him where you will be going. If I know that you are going to be traveling in a hilly, snowy location pulling a small trailer I would make sure to inspect items that would be more prone to cause trouble in that kind of situation. Traveling through a hot arid dessert would require a different inspection than a winter trip. Drive safe and be sure to check out my amazon.com special link for more automotive needs! Thanks!

Auto Parts
















I don’t know if all repair shops follow this same routine but lets talk about Parts markup! In a lot of shops, they call the parts store and get a price on the part they need for your car. For instance lets say, they need a price on a carburetor which sells for $300. Depending on the formula they use, most of them will take the $300 times 2 = $600. That is a pretty big markup! I never understood why they did that to the customers. Some may take that same $300 part and times it by 1.5 = $450. But if you walk in that same auto part store, you can purchase it for $300! That’s why a lot of auto repair shops will not let you bring in your own parts. If you find a shop that will let you bring in your own parts, consider your self lucky!



Now lets talk about the cost of Labor. What I would recommend before going to an auto repair shop, call around and ask what are your shop hourly rates. You will be surprised! I would say they vary from $25 per hour to $100 per hour! Lets say an automotive starter averages around 1 hour to remove and Install. Would you rather pay the $25 or the $100 to install your new starter. Now how they figure how long the job takes they look in a Automotive manual which determines how long an average job would take. If the book calls for 1.5 hours then they take their hourly rate and times it by 1.5 hours. That is how they figure how much labor to charge you. This information will save you thousands of dollars over a period of time.

If you really want to be conservative, ask the auto shop manager to see the amount of time in his manual showing you the labor guide to your specific job being done. Some auto shops will try and bump up the labor guide to 2 or 2.5 hours instead of the 1.5 to an unsuspecting customer. I hope you use this advice the next time you take your car in for repairs. And remember to check out these special links to keep this blog going. Thank you.

SPARK PLUG WIRES















Over 25 years of helping customers both in the office and back in the shop has been an experience I can’t explain. I feel I have met all kinds of people from different backgrounds. I don’t claim to be a magician or something like that but as soon as I greet them I get a general idea what kind of person they are. I think that is a plus! Most of the time they are curious Other times, well……Lets not go there right now.



First of all I know they have limited knowledge of whets happening to their car. That’s why they brought their car in. For instance, the most common problems would be an engine misfire. A simple spark plug wire would fix the problem. Usually that’s an indication the rest of the plug wires will be going out to real soon. So then I would need to explain the ignition system to the customer that at this time a whole new set of wires would be wise to install at this point. The reason is, within 2 weeks he will be back madder than before wondering why his car is missing again. In my future Blog I will help you distinguish the good from the bad upsell mechanics!


I read an article that an Automotive Repair Technician has to be very skillful dealing with customers. You have to know Psychology, the Law, social skills, accounting, and technical savvy. In the end I made a lot of friends and repeat customers. The ones that took the time to say hello, I always always made sure they were treated right. So the moral of the story, is, always go back and thank the mechanic personally, he will never forget you! And as always please check out my special hand picked links. Thanks

How To Save Money

This is one subject I didn’t really want to get into to. But Im out of the business now and I can reveal to you what I witnessed. The reason for this for this article is to keep you, (the customer informed). I feel every business has these dirty little secrets but tend to keep them hush hush. These Tips will teach you to save money.


Lets talk about tune-ups first. Many many shops find it very difficult to replace all the spark plugs during a routine tune-up. I have found out during a tune-up, 1 0r 2 spark plugs were never ever replaced! Even cars with over 100,000 miles on the odometer! It always seems the easy plugs were only replaced. Boy that really got to me. As a service professional, this is just pure laziness. The electrodes were wore down to the bottom! I always informed the customer of my findings and to beware next time. How to prevent this is to ask to see all the sparkplugs after the tune up! And make sure they are the same brand. This will also teach you on how to save money when it comes time to upsell.


Oil Changes! Oil changes seem pretty simple. But in a fast pace shop a lot of the procedures are forgotten. Your suppose to get a complete Lube job with your oil change. I have seen oil change techs. Just gob up a lot of Lube on their fingers and touch the top of the lube zerks where it looks like they were lubed, where actually nothing was shot into the joints! So that is probly why a lot of front end components break before their time. Ask to watch them lube every zerk. But remember the newer cars don’t have any lube zerks from the factory.


And as I mentioned in an earlier Blog, One shop actually sold a good alternator back to the customer! He pulled it off the car, cleaned it up and repainted it. Then when the paint dried, it was installed back on the car and charged the customer over $400 for his own part! Check back in for more information. In the mean time check out my post on how to save money on your brakes.

Training For Automotive Career

I remember over 25 years ago just now entering the Automotive trade schools. I was excited from what I heard back then about the great money you can make! I would say about half of it was true. That kind of money people were talking about was if you had a few notches under your belt.



What I mean is, after graduation if you had accomplished at least 5 years experience, at least $15,000 in tools, and a few ASE certifications to start, then you were in a position to negotiate your starting wages. I was never told this while attending the technical schools I graduated from. Maybe this was their way of bringing in new students and making false promises. Now don’t get me wrong here. I enjoyed working my way up the ladder. I got to meet very interesting people along the way! I worked in the Greater Kansas City Area, Topeka Kansas, and various other places in the midwest.


I have a nephew who is falling in my foot steps. He is ready to become that great Automotive technician! I enjoy visiting with him when I get the chance. I’m always telling him about how to get ahead in this field. I also tell him that out there are good mechanics and there are bad ones. The bad ones are always trying to up sell services that are not needed! Their main concern is to look good in front of the bosses and their Managers. Later on I will go into detail how to identify the bad ones from the good ones in my future blogs.



So if you know someone wanting to go into this field, tell them to follow my Blog. I remember working for this one guy who was always dodging the cops! He had a foreigner who was working for him in the back shop area who was painting the old customer parts and reselling them back to them.

He was making at least a couple thousands dollars per week doing this bad thing. When I found out what was going on back there with all the painting I put my notice in to leave. I had a good honest reputation to protect. A few months later I found out that shop was forced to close by the attorney general of that state.


Now I try to do the same thing here on My Blog. I try to keep things and products here honest! So if you have a chance, check out these great products and get your shopping done for Christmas! Thanks.

Trouble Shooting Automotive Problems

I was taught that the automobile engines need 3 things to have before a car will start. Fuel, Compression, and Spark. I will briefly go over these 3 items with out going to deep.


Fuel is needed to start a car. The newer cars are equipped with electric fuel pumps. As soon as you turn the key to the start position the electric fuel pump is energized and fuel pressure is produced. Ensure that you have enough gas in your car also. The fuel is then forced to a fuel pump regulator which adjusts the amount of fuel pressure you have. Then it is directed to your fuel injectors where your onboard computer opens and shuts your injector nozzles. That is how your engine gets the gas it needs to start. A simple fuel pressure test could verify this.



Compression is produced when your starter cranks the engine over and your pistons compresses the fuel and air together to burn and or explode internally from the spark, which pushes your piston down. Now a lot of things could prevent your pistons from working properly. For instance, your timing belt could be broken or slipped causing your car to be out of time. If you have an older car the timing chain could of broken also. A simple compression test of one or more cylinders could verify this.



Spark is needed to ignite the sparkplugs. Depending on what type of car you have, spark to the plugs come from either the onboard computer’s control system or a distributor. Today’s cars are equipped with distributor less ignition systems. What that means is, a lot of testing needs to be done on your crankshaft, camshaft, and Throttle position sensors. Basically all of these connect together via the computer to produce a spark. A simple spark tester will start you off in the right direction to find out where you are losing it at.

How To Buy A Used Car

Buying a used car can be pretty frustrating. Once you find the one you like, there always seems to be a problem with it. Buying a used car can also have its benefits too! A used car with a well maintained service history can save you lots of money.

Things you need to do before buying that used car is have it checked out at a few repair shops. What I mean is, I would visit a few specialty shops and have them run a diagnostics check on it.

A tune up shop would be able to use their expertise and give you a thourgh and quick evaluation of how the computer components are operating. Then visit your local Front End Alighnment shop and get their input as well as a brake and exhaust shop. That way you will know that you have their expert opinions on that car you are ready to buy. When they give you the thumbs up, you are good to go!

My opinion is if you take it to one place you are not really gettting an accurate diagnosis. They may write you up a big ticket on just what items they feel comfortable selling to you. Happy Driving!

Automotive Electrical

Your charging system needs to be watched as you drive down the road. If your not careful then you could be stranded somewhere you don’t want to be.


Just to keep it simple here without getting to technical, your battery is used to start your car and keep your other accessories going. For instance things like your headlights, radio, gauges, and your exterior lighting like your blinkers and parking lights also.


The job of the alternator is to keep the battery fully charged at all times while the car is running. If you have a gauge for the battery then you would want it around typically 13 or 14 volts. So having your battery serviced like having the terminals periodically cleaned and coated with some type of anticorrosion material would be a good idea.


I found out that if you suspect any kind of problem with your charging system then usually auto parts stores supply a Free service to you. What they do is bring out a handheld device which would measure your alternator output and the condition of your battery by performing a load test. This would save you quite of bit of money going to an auto repair shop and having them charge you at least a half hours labor diagnosing your problem.


Keep in mind, that the auto parts stores can also make money offering this free service to you. They have the battery, alternators, and starters right there if you need one to purchase.


Your belts to the alternator should be inspected also from time to time. A loose or worn out belt could be slipping and your charging power could be reduced. Usually your alternator bearings could also be heard whining telling you the bearings are just about worn out completely. Keep in mind your cars computer system also runs off this electrical system. So your power, performance and gas mileage could be affected also. Happy Driving

Campro/4G18 Manual Gear box complete set

Guys,

Another set of Campro/4G18 Manual Gear box complete set open for sale. Offer price at RM1700. No trade in and no discount. Gear BOx good in condition. Pls contact me 012-4095795 for more detail.

Brake Repair Service

I have worked over 10 years for Brake Franchises. So I want to tell you a little more how the “Free Brake Inspection” works. It sounds like a courtesy check which it is, but there is a lot more to it.

First of all they pull your car in and in an instant all 4 wheels are removed. Measuring devices are pulled out and in minutes they can tell if you need additional parts like Brake Pads, Brake Shoes, and other brake components. If your rotors or drums are just 1 one thousands off then they mark them as needing replaced. Your brake shoes are measured how far the rivets are exposed. Your brake pads are measured how thick they are.



Then next they inspect visually your brake lines and Brake Calipers, Brake wheel cylinders, and your Master Cylinder for leakage. They also check your Brake hardware such as shims and springs for weakness and rust. Some shops go as far as recommending a flush and fill on your whole braking system if the brake fluid looks a little dark. One scare tactic is to compare your brake fluid to new brake fluid. Then if they get your approval for the flush then they get an additional $70 to $80 bucks tacked on to your Ticket! I would estimate on a car with over 45 thousand miles on it you would be looking at least 2 to 3 hundred dollars brake job at a bad shop!


A fairly reputable shop will give you at least 2 estimates. One with the super expensive parts and one for cheaper parts. I think the highest brake estimate I ever witnessed was around $3,000. One of the bigger franchises will offer you a Lifetime Guarantee For $69.90. But what they don’t tell you is, they will only guarantee the parts installed by them. (usually just $17.00 Brake pads) They lead you to believe that the whole braking system will be guaranteed . That is how they keep you coming back time after time, nickel and dimeing you to death.



I remember one Tech. telling me that if a car comes in with bald tires and dirty then he can tell the customer wont buy anything. But on the other hand if he sees a well maintained vehicle inside and out then as he put it, “that’s his meal ticket for the day especially if it’s a woman that has a baby booster seat installed”!


So to sum all this up, Get at least 3 free brake inspections and go with the best price! Usually a slow shop with no cars visible in the lot or in the shop means “WATCH OUT.” What you want to look for is a busy shop with the ASE Logo posted outside. I hope this Post will help you when its time to shop around for brakes.

Electric Car

A majority of the electric cars on the road today are "home brew" conversion vehicles. People with an interest in electric cars convert existing gasoline-powered car­s to electric in their backyards and garages. There are many Web sites that talk about the phenomenon and show you how to do it, where to get parts, etc. A typical conversion uses a DC controller and a DC motor. The person doing the conversion decides what voltage the system will run at -- typically anything between 96 volts and 192 volts. The voltage decision controls how many batteries the car will need, and what sort of motor and controller the car will use. The most common motors and controllers used in home conversions come from the electric forklift industry.


From the outside, you would probably have no idea that a car is electric. In most cases, electric cars are created by converting a gasoline-powered car, and in that case it is impossible to tell. When you drive an electric car, often the only thing that clues you in to its true nature is the fact that it is nearly silent. Go there now to Get started! You will be amazed to see just how easy it is! Just think of the High Price Gas you will be saving.

Check Engine Light On?

How many times has your service engine soon light come on while you are driving down the road? As soon as the light comes on you began to panic! Especially if your right in the middle of traffic. Whets happening and what do you do about it.

Well first of all if your car is still running and no noticeable black smoke is coming out of your tail pipe you should be fine for now.

Your onboard computer is telling you, either it picked up a glitch or you have a failed sensor. Its hard to tell how many sensors you have located through out your car. Usually when it comes on, your computers control system goes into a default mode. (limp home mode) It gives you enough time to get home or to your local auto repair shop for testing. One other thing while your light is on and in default mode your gas mileage will drop until its fixed.


On the newer cars they are covered under your warranty. As I explained in my earlier blog, you can also research to see if you qualify for free repairs pertaining to your check engine light. What you can do is, check with your local auto repair supply store and see if they offer a free scan to find out which sensor is the culprit. That’s about as far as they can go. I believe from there they will try to sell you the sensor which may not be the problem. Most auto parts stores will not let you return the electrical item if its out of the package. So you may be stuck with a part. The best thing to do in that situation is to have the autoparts guy write the code down and then have him erase the code to turn off the light. So if it comes on again with the same code then you know the problemm is just not a glitch and needs to be fixed.


The proper procedure is to take your car to a reputable auto repair shop and let them diagnose the problem and fix it. They will charge you a fee to go in and diagnose the problem. Sometimes it would be a quick fix or I have seen times where it took days to track down your wiring system just to find a small break in the wire. Its up to the shop from what they want to charge you from then on. If it took them 9 hours to diagnose and fix @ $90.00 per hour it could be expensive! They may cut you a small break!

Buying A New Car Advice!

Taking a checklist with you when you buy a new car is a good idea. A good checklist for buying a new car is essential to getting a good car and a good deal. You can skip it of course and just simply buy a car willy nilly or you can hope that you’ll just remember all the right stuff. Which might work, but the odds are you’ll be leaving money on the table and probably not getting the best car for your cash to boot.


Basically, a checklist for buying a new car should include everything you need to know to make a good decision. This isn’t just limited to checking out the actual car itself for damage, which is usually as far as people take it, but a comprehensive list of all the things you need to check before you decide to buy.


1.Financing – Before you even go to look for new cars, sit down and figure out how much money you have to put down and how much you can pay each month. After that, you need to check with a bank to see if you qualify for a car loan. While most dealership will arrange financing, checking off this step will allow you to find the best deal and let you know where you should be looking for your car.


2.Research – You need to go online and check out any cars you’re thinking of buying. This is rarely on anybody’s checklist for buying a new car, but the more you know, the better you’ll be able to make the right choices. At the very least, you need to know the manufacturer’s suggested retail price and any special deals being offered in your area.


3.Dealership – You should checkout the various dealerships in your area and comparison shop. Not every dealership will be able to offer you the same deal and they will not all offer the same kind of deals. In general, the larger the dealership, the better the deal you will be able to make, but you should still check to make sure.


4.Car – Now you’re getting to the relatively fun part of your car buying experience: the car. A new car should be flawless and in perfect working condition, but they aren’t always. You need to check underneath the car for fluid leaks, as well as checking the tires and the engine.

Everything should be perfect. Do not take a car on a test drive unless you are dead serious about getting the car; you’ll want to buy it if you drive it, a psychological fact the dealers rely on.

5.Deal – This is probably the most important thing on the checklist for buying a new car. The maximum you should really pay for a car is the factory invoice. You would think that this would mean that the dealership would make nothing, but the invoice price already has profit built in. If you can’t get this price, you should consider walking away.

You would also need to be on the look out for vague or hidden fees. You need to make sure to have every one explained to you, and bargain hard on anything that seems unnecessary.

Trouble Shooting Automotive Brakes

Are Your Brakes Making A Noise Now?
Let me tell you what is happening when you start hearing noisy brakes.

First of all, how long have they been making a noise, is what an auto technician will ask you. He needs to find out what kind of oral estimate to give to you.
If for instance your noise just started within this past week you might be fine. If its been longer then that, then you might be looking at some expensive repairs! What I mean is, the longer you wait the higher the repair bill will be.


Your brakes are equipped with built in automatic squealer tabs to let you know when your brake pads or brake shoes are just now hitting the worn out mark. After a couple weeks of squealing, then your starting to run your pads or shoes directly into your brake drums or brake rotors. This is what they call metal to metal contact.


Sometimes the auto technician can turn your rotors or drums. They need to measure the thickness of the rotors and drums to make sure they can be turned or resurfaced. If you wait to long to have your brakes inspected then you could cut deeply into these items and there is no way they can be fixed. You would have to now have them replaced causing a higher brake bill. They could be resurfaced but if that happens then you will most likely experience some vibrations and pulsation by the following week after your repair. Then you would be upset like I would be. And in some states its illegal to send you out with unsafe thin rotors or drums.


The bottom line here is, if your brakes are making a noise then just park the car until your ready to have them fixed or take it in for a complete brake Inspection. I will follow up with this in a future blog!

Automotive Fuel System

Pretty much after 1986 most all vehicles went to Fuel Injection. Then everyone said goodbye to Carbuerators.

Fuel Injection systems are  a lot easier to work on and diagnose then the old carbuerators. Carbuerator rebuilding was quite  expensive from the customer's point of view. The parts and labor were averaging around $500 a job.

The fuel injection cleaning process is fast and does a very good job cleaning out the carbon build up inside your engines intake system. Actually it also depended on what type of fuel system cleaning the auto shop had. Some shops had the regular 3 can cleaning system. While others had a very big and clumsy expensive machine they used.

I really liked useing the 3 can system cleaning method. It involved adding one can to the fuel tank as a fuel additive. The second can was hooked up to a high pressure source and sprayed straight into the upper intake and upper plenum area and scrubbed by hand. The third can was hooked  into the cars vacum system where it was sucked down in to alot of the intake system and down around the intake and exhaust valves. There it would soak and bubble up for about 20 minutes. Then we would start the car after the 3rd can soaked and watched all the black carbon blow out the tailpipe!

After changing the fuel filter, (for an additional charge) , I could not beleive the power that was restored after this fuel system cleaning process!  Just slightly pushing on the accelerator the car wanted to jump right out of the shop and take offon its own. I think it cost around $80 or $90 bucks back then but it was well worth the moneyin my opinion!

Cooling System

Winter Time is near! And its time to check your cooling system. Or take  it to your local Auto Repair Shop and have your car serviced. My self, I would recommend having your cars cooling system checked at least once a year.


The things you want checked are, your antifreeze,your radiator cap,pressure test the system for leaks, and have a complete Flush and Fill. Just having a radiator drained and filled isnt a good idea.  The reason I say that is, all your replaceing is your antifreeze in your radiator. The Car is turned off during this procedure and your just mixing a small amount of new antifreeze with the rest of the gunk built up in the rest of the system. Maybe on a newer car with less than 12,000 miles you might, get by.

I remember reading a few articles regarding the New 100,000 Antifreeze. It sounds great but, they found it was not true. At least General Motors did. And after working on alot of their cars I found old contaminated antifreeze that was causeing premature wear on the internal and external parts. I just recently purchased a 2001 Blazer with only 84,000 miles and had to flush the cooling system 4 times to remove all the rust and gunk built up in the heater core. After that my heater now blows HOT!

To sum it all up, have your thermostat and antifreeze replaced.  And do not forget to have them pressure test your cooling system for leaks and do a complete Flush and Fill on your car or truck.

General Motors And Their Carbuerators

I mentioned earlier about the use of Carbuerators declineing. But what I forgot to mention was, some people prefer older cars to the newer Fuel Injected models. Fuel Injection is nice but I sure miss the old Carbs! I remember overhauling and rebuilding at least 2 or 3 per week.

General Motors came out with what they called was the C-3 Quadrojet which was great when working properly. It took about an hour to Soak and then another hour to clean and restore. Special tools and gauges were required to put them back together.

 I think back in the 90's we were charging around $300 to $400 bucks to rebuild. We had to attend alot of General Motors Training classes to keep updated. I remember the excitement I had when installing it on the vehicle, then starting the car!

We had to tweak out the air fuel mixture screws, adjust the choke pull-offs and set the Idle speeds back to Factory Specifications. Next we hooked up the onboard scanner and made sure the ECM was properly adjusting the carbuerator after our initial settings. It was like watching a child grow! I sure miss the excitement!

Check Engine Diagnostics

How many times have you walked into a repair shop not knowing what to expect? My advice is always ask for a Diagnostics for the problem you are having. Many many times its only one small part causeing your problems. Please ask to see the part that is being replaced!

Sometimes I found only a small $.50 vacum hose that rotted off or saturated with oil and just fell off! The shop Managers always tell us to fix the small problem but upsell somthing else. Which brings up another Idea they have.

Somtimes, it only takes less then 20 seconds to fix a problem but they have to hold the car in the shop for at least 30 minutes to make you feel like your money was well spent. Beware of this tactic also.

Like I said before not all shops act this way but you would be surprised of how many perform this tactic on the unsuspecting Customers.

And last, If your check engine light comes on, just ask for a diagnostics of why your light is on. Many shops can go into an hourly charge when it comes to a check engine or service engine soon light. But just ask for a diagnostics check.

Brakes

I think most of the time people feel a $69.90 Brake job is all they need. Very seldom that is true. Once you pull the wheels off and start inspecting, the price starts to go up.

 The things Brake mechanics look for are rotor and drum thickness, shoes, pads, hardware, springs and lines and calipers etc. I used to give people 2 estimates. One is what they can get by on and another one is what it would take to get their brakes back up to 100%. This is not only right but should be performed with every brake repair estimate in my opinion.

 I think the $69.90 jobs only applied to the newer cars. The older cars with over 50,000 miles on them seemed to get higher and higher. Thats when parts start to leak and rust. So be prepared for a higher estimate if you own an older vehicle.

Rebuilding Rochester Carbuerators

I would say most of my experiences were doing Driveability Problems. Driveability problems consists of for examples, a car comes in missing, hard to start, or no start at all, bad gas mileage, Check Engine Lights, you know the hard stuff. lol

I was equipped with scanners, lab scopes oscilliscopes,volt ohm meters,and the 4 Gas reading machine which measures the amount of pollutiants coming from your tailpipe. It is also a good Diagnostic Tool.

I really enjoyed the days of rebuilding the C-3 carbuerators back in the day! Now I think they left around 1984-85. This type of work was really rewarding to me. I could see the before and after results of my carbuerator rebuilds.

 But let me get back to the point. I cannot believe what a tuneup consists of these days! In my opinion, its just changeing your sparkplugs for $80. Higher on some models! Of course thats when the mechanics have your car in the shop and looks for somthing else to Increase their Ticket averages.

 I knew one shop who gave away a Big Screen TV just for selling the most parts for that month! It wasnt me. lol

 So in short, when you go in for a tuneup, take your time and ask for the list of the Items they want to sell you. (with estimates) And do them one at a time. Unless your well off or going on a trip and need it all done today. Some services may be legitimate but then others may be just parts thrown at you to increase ticket averages. This Tech. most of the time will do a good job. Thats the guy who will win the Big Screen!

AUTOMOTIVE

As you can see there's alot more than just kicking the tires!

I would like to opine on a few myths I have heard about auto mechanics. I heard that we are always bad people. The fact is from experience, during a routine inspection, if we recommend to many services that we will see cause a problem down the road for you, we are labeled as a rip off artist. If we don't recommend all the services that will cause you problems we are labeled as incompetent. As you can see being an auto technician can be very frustrating and difficult at times.

One other tip I can give you, If your happy with your car repair after a few weeks go back and thank the mechanic personally. This is almost never done. The few people that did, I as an auto technician personally took care of these people every time they returned for other services. I gave these people special attention on going that extra mile that you normally don't do. I know its hard some times but try and be nice to your auto mechanic!

Used Cars

Buying a used car can be alittle scary if you don't posses a little mechanical knowledge. The first thing I would recommend is take it to a reputable shop. Inform them that you are considering buying this car. Ask them for a complete list of everything they see that can cause you a problem in the near future. And make sure they give you an estimate.

The things that you would want checked out are front end suspension components, brakes, electrical system, (blinkers, lights etc.) leaks such as antifreeze, oil, power steering, brake fluid, and gas leaks. You'll most likely get charged for one hour of diagnostic time.

With the estimate in hand you can let the seller know that the vehicle needs some work performed. You can either have him fix the vehicle or have him knock it off the price of the car. Ive personally used this strategy and it worked Very well. If you don't have the time, then take someone with you with a little mechanical knowledge.

The things you should do are first drive the car around town and down the highway. Listen to any noises when braking and going over bumps. Make sure all your lights and blinkers work. I’ve noticed in the past most used car dealers would have the engine compartment steam cleaned. With that in mind, I would drive the car a good ten or fifteen miles and then have the engine compartment inspected for leaks. (Engine oil, transmission fluid, rack’n pinion and power steering components).

After driving the car around town pop the hood open see if you smell any fluid burning or see any leaks. These leaks should show up now after driving the car awhile. After the test drive if you noticed any of these problems then have your mechanic inspect the vehicle.

Advance Auto Parts

Brakes should be inspected every twenty to thirty thousand miles in my opinion. Most big brake franchises offer a free brake inspection. With that being the case, I would go out and get two or three free brake inspections. Then choose which one you feel comfortable with and the lowest estimate.

If they offer you a lifetime brake warranty at an additional cost ask the store manager to explain the warranty in detail. There are so many brake components that are not covered. I will talk a little further in upcoming posts.

Exhaust shops also most of the time offers a free inspection. If you think your car sounds a little louder than normal they will inspect your muffler, exhaust pipes, catalytic converter, and hangers and give you a free estimate.

 I would bring another estimate from another shop and ask if they can beat this estimate. If you catch them on a slow day, no or little cars in the parking lot, they might work with you. You'll find this strategy will work with any repair, you need.

Another important point to remember, most big auto parts chains such as Advance Auto Parts offer free alternator, starter, and battery checks. Going there first could save you a diagnostic check out fee someplace else.

Car Specifications

This mostly applies to American made vehicles. Once again check your warranty and owner’s manual for details and don't be afraid to ask questions.

The things you should have when calling repair shops are the year, make, model and engine size. When calling about tires, check your owner’s manual for your specific tire size. Some times this can be located on the inside driver's door. Repair shops need this information to give you some type of estimate over the phone. Remember every car and truck have different prices on parts and labor. Don't forget to ask what their shop hourly rates are.

Tune-ups in my opinion are either minor or major. Minor tunes up on today’s cars are basically just spark plugs replacement. The reason I say that is, most of the newer cars, idle speeds and timing are computer controlled. There are no adjustments needed. So if you are having a problem such as missing, hesitating, stalling, and hard to start, ninety percent of the time a tune up wont help it. Now if you are having any of these problems ask for a diagnosis first and find out what the problem really is and get an estimate. A major tune-up is one that will cost you more money and you will need to determine if you are going to keep the car another 100,00 miles.

I will go a little deeper in my future posts. Happy Driving!

Enviromental Protection Agency

The web site I went to was http: //www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt  It says
federally required emission control warranties protect you, the
Vehicle owner, from the cost of repairs for certain emission related
failures that result from manufacturer defects in materials and
Workmanship or that causes your vehicle to exceed federal emission
Standards.

 I would go there and see if the emission part is covered first before you give the go ahead and fix the vehicle at your cost.

All these years as a auto-repair technician I was surprised to see this information, and to see how many parts are covered under this emissions warranty. I would have never known this information if it weren’t for the World Wide Web. These emission control parts are so expensive, please go ahead and check it out. That information should be kept along with your vehicle for future references.

I used to inform customers to check with the dealer or their extended warranty company to see if it was covered. So the next time that little light comes on that says Check engine or Service engine soon, have these documents ready. If a customer asked me if these were covered under the EPA’s emission warranty I would do my homework so that I don't get in trouble with the EPA.

This sight also informs you the process in filing a complaint if you are being sold a part that is covered under this warranty. Whether you were the first second or third owner, it didn't matter.

Car Warranty

I understand that brakes, tune-ups, oil changes, and preventive maintance services are not covered with your car purchases. But you will want to check with your dealer to be sure what is covered and what isn’t.

Things you should have inspected are any smoke emitting from your tailpipe, any type of leakage problems that could worsen after a while, any internal engine noise, or transmission shifting irregularity. These would be covered under your Power train warranty, and should be fixed.

Fuel and emissions warranties basically are any thing having to do with either your check engine light or on some models your service engine soon light. My understanding is the Environmental Protection Agency; (E.P.A) closely monitors the air qualities and wants every vehicle running smooth so that it doesn't produce any pollutants in the air. Most vehicles with the light on would be covered under this warranty. The last time I checked it was 7 years or 70 thousand miles which ever occurs first. According to the EPA (environmental protection agency) ruling you may be covered under this warranty.

I was surprised to see what was all covered and for how long. In another words, if your pesky engine light should come on it might be covered under this type of warranty!

Car Repair Advice!

Before you leave ask them to save your old parts for your own personal inspection. You don't really have to know what your looking at but just by asking this question shows them you are a conservative and careful shopper. And once again, some shops will think twice about selling you a part that you don't need.

The last thing you should ask before you go, are questions about your warranty. For example what is covered and for how long. I have seen many times over and over, people picking up their cars and simply just leaving. This is ok if you are in a hurry, but you should know what you just purchased and if it happens again will they fix it for free?

I hope you will use this small bit of advice I have provided to you every time your car needs serviced. I will go into details in my future posts.You will find it could save you money and give you the confidence you need to leave your car in the hands of the repair shop guy.

Hourly Rates

Ask what their SHOP HOURLY RATES ARE!

This information could save you money. For example, one shop prices a water pump job at 2.5 HRS. In labor. Their SHOP HOURLY RATE is $45.00 per hour. That means charging you $112.50 in labor. Another shop charges$70.00 per SHOP HOURLY RATE. That comes to $175.00 in labor. Just by asking what their SHOP HOURLY RATES are you saved $62.50. Every shop sets their own rate.

 You will also appear as a careful shopper. They will think twice about over charging you. Ask them what are your chances of having your car serviced by a certified technician. In the auto repair industry mechanics are always coming and going. Training new people are always happening.

After all this is your money and vehicle you are entrusting this shop to. So don't be afraid to ask!

Frequently Asked Questions

After finding the right repair shop ask to speak to the store manager. Getting his name during the conversation is a good idea. Ask him if he has any specials or discounts for new customers. Just the idea of attracting new business he will most likely work with you.

 What ever your situation is, tell him your not happy with your current mechanic or you are new to the area and are looking for a new place to start bringing your business to. I have seen this work many times over and over again. . Store managers are always under pressure to get their sales up. One shop I worked for was told to give at least 20% off repair services just to get the business up!

Ask what kind of warranty will come with your parts and services. And always ask to see your old parts! Bringing in coupons from other repair shops is another good idea. Ask if they can meet or beat this price. With the coupon in hand they will most likely do it.  Happy Driving!

SAVING MONEY ON YOUR CAR REPAIRS

Specialty shops (Tune-ups, brakes, exhaust, transmissions, tires, etc.) in my opinion are more experienced in what they do. They see the same problems over and over again.

Their prices are usually fair and can give quick and accurate estimates. Where as a general repair shop sees a different problemevery day. I sometimes compare this to lets say a general physician compared to a heart specialist. Who would you rather see for a heart problem? So as you can see finding the right repair shop could save you alot of time And money.

I have seen just recently there are auto repairs
referral services available in the phone books to help you locate a shop. I actually had this idea over 25 years ago! I should of ran with it! This is new and I can’t tell you how reliable they are.

Questions you ask could save you money After finding the right repair shop ask to speak to the store manager. Getting his name during the conversation is a good idea. Ask him if he has any specials or discounts for new customers. Just the idea of attracting new business he will most likely work with you. Whatever your situation is,

Tell him your not happy with your current mechanic or you are new to the area and are looking for a new place to start bringing your business to. I have also seen this work many times over and over again. .........

AUTO MECHANIC "AUTODUDE"

I have over 25 years experience and am currently ASE certified. My experience includes working on cars and assisting store managers with front deskwork. I've seen many times over the years a customer will not know what they need and say, do what ever it takes to fix my car. That’s not a bad idea, but some shops will take advantage of that statement. I'm not saying that all shops are bad but sadly to say there are shops out there that will. I’ve always wanted to write something to educate the public little bit about their cars. I will lose a lot of friends and future employers writing this manual, but if I can help somebody save money, it makes it all worth while. Now I won’t be able to teach you everything there is to know about how a car works but I can educate you a little about the automobile repair facilities. 

CHECK THE BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU

Better Business Bureau's Starting an eBay BusinessFinding a repair shop with a good reputation is an excellent place to start. You might ask friends and family members for references. What I mean is whom would they recommend from past experiences. Most people have a family mechanic, somebody they trusted for years. Check with the better business bureau to see if the shop you chose is a member. They should also tell you if they have had complaints in the past. I know this seems time consuming but it could save you some problems down the road. One important thing to remember is a busy shop usually indicates they do good work. This is most of the time true.
Finding a repair shop with a certified logo sign displayed
Is a plus. This usually indicates they do good work. This is most of the time true. This indicates some or all technicians have gone through a training program and have passed the tests needed to become a certified auto technician. This is who I would want working on my car, wouldn't you? Specialty shops (Tune-ups, brakes, exhaust, transmissions, tires, etc.) in my opinion are more experienced in what they do. They see the same problems over and over again. Their prices are usually fair and can give quick and accurate estimates. Where as a general repair shop sees different problems every day.

To blink4blog

"i just did my EVO3 brakes upgrades too, the market price is RM500-600 depends on condition, RM400 wait another few years might properly got it, plenty of gen2 on the street man"

Thanks for your comment.

No doubt the market price is RM500-600 as i found at the web.
But i have found one guy bought at price RM400 from an advertiser at sham alam recently.
It is not to say impossible to get that price , very depend you deal will 2nd "hand" or the primary source.
Regardless plenty of gen 2 on the road , how many of them will upgrade ?
Anyway i will try to find source that can offer as low as rm400 ...

Upgrade brake system

Time to upgrade my gen 2 front braking system. These days really scare to accelerate with full throttle , my braking system really take time to stop in very short distance. Can you all believe i had brake until my new Fr brake disc turn into red color and brake pad burnt until smoke came out ? I used to have fun ride or togue with a group of friends. WOT accelerate at hill winding road , frequent braking . Braking system begin to fade and can not stop down the car even hard press. Of course i can not hard press until jam brake , that very dangerous during cornering. I have done some research on replacement braking system which can upgrade braking power. Just bought an evo 3 servo pump and still looking for evo 3 fr braking system. Why i choose evo 3 braking system ? Why not evo 4 :-P ? Evo 3 and evo 4 are the same , just the knuckle lug count different . 4 and 5 lugs. since evo 3 lug pcd is 114.3 , just nice for gen 2. If bought together with knuckle , no need any special make mount brake. Just remove exist knukle and plug on the whole set of evo 3 brake kit !! ... Then can enjoy the ultimate braking power for gen 2 :P ... Found some offers from selangor ..

Quite pricy for used item .. Offered price RM600++ . Still looking for better offer ..

Anyone can offer me the evo 3 FRont brake kit at RM400 ... Pls call / text me with this number 012-4095795

Turbo comparison

Let why i recommended GT2510 rather use used turbo as listed at below.

We should understand every turbo build for different application. Mitsubishi engine considered short stroke engine which the bore size is 80mm and above . Stroke is short if compare to campro. Campro bore size is 76mm and stroke 88mm , this is long stroke engine . If apply turbo unit listed at below , you will experience boost kick in too early at below 2000 rpm. The power saturated after 4000 rpm. The turbine A/R has blocked the exhaust from flow fast. Means choking. Power drop at high rpm !!


Mitsubishi



Garret

Campro BOT kit package

Hi guys,

Many post up a question about how much my BOT kit cost . Alright , here i will list out all item cost and labour charge .

Unichip Q+ plus turbo module = Rm2600
New GT2510 ( hyrid) = Rm1500
0.5 bar wastegate = Rm300
New turbo header ( 2mm thick s/steel pipe ) Rm1200
S/steel piping 2" ( mandrel bent ) RM500
Welding labour charge Rm200
Steel braided hose for oil feed RM100
Oil sump oil drain modification = RM300 ( Aluminium welding and adaptor )
Oil drain pipe plus bracket = RM100
Hose joint 2" and 2.5" (RM50 per pieces) ( 5 pcs used ) = RM250
Super Hose clip S/steel ( bigger than normal)= RM12 x 20 = Rm240
injector Evo = Rm80
External Injector holder = RM90
Down pipe 2.5" pipe = RM200
O2 sensor flange = RM50
Labour charge = RM300
Intercooler 10" x 7" x 2" = RM450

TOtal - RM8460 !!

Accessories:-
Blow off ( china made ) = various type RM300

So guy justify yourselves .... Not many ppl can breakdown as what i have done here ...

some info about turbo

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/tmodels.html

Campro manual gearbox for sale

Hi guys ,

I got a set of campro manual gearbox kit for sale. The kit including clucth pedal , brake pedal, primary clutch pump ( firewall) , gearshift console , gearbox mounting , new gear FF & RR mounting bracket ( If neo need only RR ) , 8.5 inches clutch set , 8" flywheel and clutch braided hose. Offer price RM2200 (REVISED) . Suitable for gen 2 , waja ( 4g18 & campro ) , pesona and neo.

Reach me with this number 012-4095795 kevin




Hi guys ,

I got a set of campro manual gearbox kit for sale. The kit including clucth pedal , brake pedal, primary clutch pump ( firewall) , gearshift console , gearbox mounting , new gear FF & RR mounting bracket ( If neo need only RR ) , 8.5 inches clutch set , 8" flywheel and clutch braided hose. Offer price RM2500 . Reach me with this 012-4095795.

Some photo of my upgrade

Hi all , So long never update anything . Today update some of add on stuff . I have found the turbo piping very hot when riding during day time. So i decide to wrap all the piping which inside engine bay with thermal wrap. And i also add on HKS blow off . I got the blow off modified and no such sharp blow off sound . Sound very gentle ... :) :)





Hi all , So long never update anything . Today update some of add on stuff . I have found the turbo piping very hot when riding during day time. So i decide to wrap all the piping which inside engine bay with thermal wrap. And i also add on HKS blow off . I got the blow off modified and no such sharp blow off sound . Sound very gentle ... :) :)

My campro turbo dyno chart

Hi guys ... just finish dyno tune my campro turbo ... below is dyno figure based on engine output ..

new update !!


hi guys .... new photo update .. got the rusty welded line polished .... Looks good :P






Intercooler FIxed !!

Hi guys , Finally got my intercooler fixed. Took one day work to finish the piping. Must thanks to northern garage buddy helps me weld those piping joint. And myself in charge cut and make pipe routing. All CNC mandrel bend stainless steel. Below is some photo of the setup ....





My turbocharge system

Hi guys ,

Sorry for let you all waiting for so long. I just finish 80% of my turbocharge system . Haven't tune after BOT. I manage to drive my car below 0.1 bar , can feel that engine very responsive. I like the feel. Currently running without intercooler , going to fix on the piping very soon. Here i also post some picture of my setup .....




 

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