Standard campro with High cam plus unichip

Before and after




Dyno tune preparation

The word Tune-up is an oputdated and obsolete term. The need for tune-ups went out back in the mid 1980s when fuel injection replaced carburetors and conventional spark plugs were replaced with long life platinum spark plugs. Yet many people think their engine still needs a tune-up.
What is needed is preventive maintenance. Or, if your Check Engine Light is on, what you need is a diagnostic scan to determine what is causing the fault.
If your engine is hard to start, stalls, runs rough, gets poor fuel mileage, doesn't run right, or is experiencing any other kind of driveability or emissions problem, you don't need a tune-up. You need a diagnostic check to find out what's causing the problem.
The only engines that still need a tune-up today are old ones from the early 1980s and back that have carburetors and distributors. Yet the tune-up myth persists, and may people still think it is some kind of "cure-all" for what ails their engine. To make matters worse, many new car dealers tell their customers they need a 60,000 mile "major" tune-up (whatever that is).

Tune-Up Definition is Undefined

There's no common definition of what exactly a tune-up should include, but most would agree that it involves replacing the spark plugs and performing other adjustments to the idle speed, fuel mixture and spark timing that are necessary to maintain or restore like-new engine performance. The problem is there is almost nothing that can adjusted or "tuned" under the hood on late model engines with computerized engine controls. Ignition timing is fixed and controlled by the engine computer, as is idle speed and the fuel mixture. Base timing can be checked with a scan tool, but cannot be adjusted on most engines. The same goes for idle speed and various emission functions. A scan tool can reveal if the systems are functioning normally, but in most cases no adjustments are possible because the adjustments are programmed into the computer.
A simple maintenance type tune-up (a new set of plugs) may make an engine easier to start, improve fuel economy, lower emissions, restore lost pep and power if the old spark plugs are worn or fouled. But if the problem is due to something else, a new set of plugs alone won't help. A tune-up under these circumstances is a waste of time and money. The engine needs to be diagnosed to find out what is wrong.

TUNE-UP CHECKS

An engine check-up should start with a scan for any current, pending or past fault codes. This requires plugging a scan tool or code reader into the vehicle diagnostic connector so the tool can communicate with the powertrain control module (PCM). The onboard diagnostic system does an excellent job of monitoring all the key systems, and on most 1996 and newer vehicles it can even detect engine misfires.
If no faults are found, and the engine is running normally, the check-up is not over because there are additional things that should also be checked (especially if the engine is NOT running normally or any fault codes were found with a scan tool):

• Battery voltage
• Charging voltage
• Power balance or dynamic compression (to identify any mechanical problems such as leaky exhaust valves, worn rings, bad head gasket, bad cam, etc. that could adversely affect compression and engine performance)
• Engine vacuum (to detect air leaks as well as exhaust restrictions)
• Operation of the fuel feedback control loop (to confirm that the system goes into closed loop operation when the engine warms up)
• Check exhaust emissions (this should be a must in any area that has an emissions testing program to confirm the vehicle's ability to meet the applicable clean air standards, and to detect gross fuel, ignition or emission problems that require attention)
• Verify idle speed (should be checked even if computer controlled to detect possible ISC motor problems); Idle mixture (older carbureted engines only, but injector dwell can be checked on newer vehicles to confirm proper feedback fuel control)
• Check ignition timing -- if possible (should be checked even if it is not adjustable to detect possible computer or sensor problems)
• Operation of the EGR valve.

OTHER CHECKS
In addition to these performance checks, hoses and belts should be visually inspected.
All fluids (oil, coolant, automatic transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid) should also be inspected to make sure all are at the proper level, and that the appearance and condition of each is acceptable. There should be no sludge in the oil, the ATF should not smell like burnt toast, the coolant should have the proper concentration of antifreeze and not be full of rust or sediment, the brake fluid should be clear and not full of muck, etc.
WHAT TO REPLACE
If the tune-up checks find no major faults, the following items can be replaced for preventive maintenance:

• Spark plugs (gapped to the correct specs, of course). Consider long life platinum or iridium spark plugs on applications where plug accessibility is difficult or where longer service life may be beneficial
• Rotor and/or distributor cap (if required)
• Fuel filter; Air filter; PCV valve and breather filter
• Other parts on an "as needed" basis (things like spark plug wires, belts, hoses, fluids, etc.)
• Check and adjust (if required on older vehicles) ignition timing, idle speed and idle mixture; O2 sensor(s).

OXYGEN SENSORS
Oxygen sensors on late model vehicles should last 100,000 to 150,000 miles under normal driving and operating conditions (which does NOT include an engine that burns oil, or vehicles that have been under water!). The oxygen sensor is a key sensor that can hurt fuel economy if it is getting old or has failed. One EPA study found that up to 70% of high mileage vehicles that fail an emissions test need a new O2 sensor.
So does that mean the oxygen sensors should be replaced as part of a tune-up? Not unless they are defective or are acting very sluggish. Oxygen sensor performance can be verified with a scan tool, and a bad oxygen sensor will usually set a fault code and turn on the Check Engine Light, but not always. If an oxygen sensor fails or is getting sluggish, it will usually cause the engine to run rich. This causes an increase in fuel consumption and emissions. It usually does not hurt performance or cause other driveability issues.
Oxygen sensors are expensive to replace. They typically cost $35 to $70 each, and some may cost upwards of $200 or more depending on the application. In addition, V6 and V8 engines have one oxygen sensor for each cylinder bank, and some have two. There are also one or more oxygen sensors in the exhaust system to monitor the catalytic converter(s). So oxygen sensors are not something you want to replace unless it is absolutely necessary.
Some manufacturers do recommend replacing oxygen sensors for preventive maintenance, however. The recommended replacement interval for unheated 1 or 2 wire wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s applications is 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s applications should be changed every 60,000 miles. And on OBD II equipped vehicles (all 1996 and newer), some recommended replacing the oxygen sensors at 100,000 mile intervals. 

My turbo fitting

Take such long time to finish my turbo . I haven't finish it yet . Just got my turbo fitting for engine oil inlet , water inlet and outlet . Soon will remove oil sump to make fitting for oil drain . Below is picture of fitting for my turbo . Thanks lip teik from hydraulic shop in kepala batas penang . With his help , i can get those nice fitting easily . No need any hassle modification .

Broken Hppc ( quadcore plug cable )

Just to share a story about infamous hppc or quadcore 10mm .

Got a friend of mine had changed to quadcore 10mm plug cable and used it for 4 mths . This morning he is warming engine and do some checking on his car . Suddenly his campro engine gives some weird response and abnormal vibration. Then he suspects spark plug give way , so he is pulling out all the plug cable . Pull out 1st and 2nd cable ok , he get shocks when come to 3rd cable . The plug boot is coming out but the spark plug clip of the cable remain clipped on the spark plug terminal . Then he take out the spark plug and he found that the cable already broken and torn into 2 parts . Dismantle the clip and found that core already torn into 2 part as well and corroded as well. The clip stopper also got burn mark on it .


Below is the picture of broken wire :-

Stopper got burn mark due to high voltage spark .


Core is broken !!


Insulator color also different !!

Gen 2 MT with unichip

I just have finished tuning a gen 2 with unichip . This gen 2 very amaze . Initial dyno without unichip can get 133 bhp already !! . After tuned , this gen 2 gained horsepower 143 bhp and torque 183nm . Unbelievable !! We can't believe the result ... Run 3 times , still get same result .

Below is modification has been done .

1) everco header
2) 2 inche piping
3) one mid box
4) everco s-flow muffler
5) Matspeed camshaft
6) Open pod setup
7) adjustable cam pulley ( not much offset )
8) Bored throttle body ( not enlarge but tapered inner )

For campro ecu , you can advance the ingition timing even below 2k rpm . Just you can't over advance and cause knocking . Campro got knock sensor attached at the block . Any knocking occur , ecu will get know knocking level thru knock sensor and retard timing . If over advance timing with piggyback , ecu will retard the ignition until it limit. Up to that , engine will lose power . And that will be just like you all called readapt , retune and overwrite . Ecu not that smart to over write piggyback if no engine faulty cause by the overtune with piggyback . Why campro engine can feel heavy during day time and feel power during nite time ... During day time , air temperature is higher than night time . Air temperature can be measured with campro map sensor . If air temperature in intake manifold rising , ecu will retard timing to prevent knocking . Because hot air will cause the mixture to burn too fast ( explosion ) before piston travel more than 40 degree before TDC . If mixture ignite too early with hot air , mixture will burn very fast and become a huge pressure which also called as explosion . Hence the piston will knock with explosion ... That is so called knocking . If want to have timing advance safe and no knocking happen during day time . A very good cool air intake needed to reduce air temperature . Conseal airbox with open pod if the best ... Not those open pod that expose to open air . This kind of setup sure cause ecu to retard timing during day time driving .