I just had a visit from my cousin the other day who was having car problems. On a zero degree day she asked me to go and listen to a noise her car was making. I said sure no problem. I couldn’t do much because of the weather and that day I forgot my tool box. I usually never leave home with out them.
Well anyways just popping the hood and starting her car I heard a really bad grinding noise coming from one of the pulleys driven by her serpentine belt. Normally I would of pulled the belt off and manually spun all the pulleys until I found the one making the noise. But without the tools, I could only guess of where the noise was coming from, which was the compressor.
I advised her to get it to a shop and have it checked out ASAP.
She then told me I was right diagnosing the noisy compressor. She said the mechanic told her she needed a New compressor costing around $1,200.00.
I never bothered to ask her if she got a couple more estimates. In my opinion, they should of given her at least a few different options such as, by passing the compressor with a kit which would of cost her around a couple hundred dollars until she had the money saved up. Or, I was wondering if the compressor clutch, just needed replaced since that was where the noise was coming from.
I also wondered if they realized she was a single mother raising two children by herself ,couldn’t possibly come up with that amount of money all at once. I just only wished I was there to hear their sales pitch!
So if you can, ask about other options available and always get at least 2 other opinions!
Happy Driving!
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Nearly all post 96 vehicles use a throttle position sensor.TPS sensors are normally mounted on the throttle body with the throttle plate shaft running into the sensor. As the gas pedal is pushed, the throttle plate opens, rotating the sensors internal variable resistor. Position Sensor varies (normally increasing), signaling the rate of throttle opening as well as throttle position. The computer uses this information to adjust fuel trim, which is the amount of time the injectors are open , delivering more fuel.
Most throttle position sensors have at least 3 wires. These are for a 5 volt reference, a return line and the actual TPS voltage line. With your own digital volt meter you can actually see the 5 volt reference change as you open and close the throttle shaft. This should be checked with the key on and engine off. Use and appropriate wiring diagram and always verify correct base voltage before sweeping the gas pedal. Any erratic dropping or spiking voltage indicates a concern. Remember to check and pierce the return wire and watch the voltage going back to the computer. You should also check while tapping and heating the sensor if you have a possible intermittent.
Possible symptoms of a faulty TP sensor include hesitation or stumble on acceleration or tip in, a dead spot in the throttle, rough idle or service engine soon light with related codes. Some older style throttle position sensor are adjustable, but most newer style sensors are fixed position. Base TPS voltage readings are critical for proper fuel trim operation so always use your scan tool or multimeter to check for a good setting. Like I said before, these can be purchased through Amazon on the Caracal Link to the right! A loosely mounted sensor will create erratic symptoms including rough idle, and hesitation so check this as well. If you are planning on doing some of this minor repair engine control system testing plan on purchasing your own Code reader, Digital multimeter and possibly your own scan tools from Amazon!
Happy driving!
Most throttle position sensors have at least 3 wires. These are for a 5 volt reference, a return line and the actual TPS voltage line. With your own digital volt meter you can actually see the 5 volt reference change as you open and close the throttle shaft. This should be checked with the key on and engine off. Use and appropriate wiring diagram and always verify correct base voltage before sweeping the gas pedal. Any erratic dropping or spiking voltage indicates a concern. Remember to check and pierce the return wire and watch the voltage going back to the computer. You should also check while tapping and heating the sensor if you have a possible intermittent.
Possible symptoms of a faulty TP sensor include hesitation or stumble on acceleration or tip in, a dead spot in the throttle, rough idle or service engine soon light with related codes. Some older style throttle position sensor are adjustable, but most newer style sensors are fixed position. Base TPS voltage readings are critical for proper fuel trim operation so always use your scan tool or multimeter to check for a good setting. Like I said before, these can be purchased through Amazon on the Caracal Link to the right! A loosely mounted sensor will create erratic symptoms including rough idle, and hesitation so check this as well. If you are planning on doing some of this minor repair engine control system testing plan on purchasing your own Code reader, Digital multimeter and possibly your own scan tools from Amazon!
Happy driving!
Oxygen Sensors
It's rare that a repair for a check engine light can be fixed simply by resetting it or disconnecting the battery. The dreaded light will return! Don’t be mad however, the light is only the messenger. It is simply doing it’s very important job letting you know that your vehicle isn’t operating at top efficiency....and this is a good thing! But keep in mind like I said in my earlier post, Your car’s computer can still receive a false reading and turn on your “Service Engine Soon” light. But after resetting it with your Amazon Code Reader, if it returns, then you should have your car diagnosed at a repair shop.
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), is not only for the vehicles emission system as some techs would have you believe. This light informs the operator when there is a problem anywhere in the vehicles Electronic Engine Control System. This system basically includes all sensors, solenoids, valves, actuators etc. that your vehicle needs to operate correctly. As I'm sure you’ve concluded, this system is huge, and can include both engine and transmission concerns.
This is where you come in! With only a few basic tools, a little patience and some mechanical aptitude you can pinpoint and repair most of these concerns yourself.
The next few Posts will include a quick review of how the most common Sensors can be reviewed, identified and possibly fixed!
I want to start of with the Oxygen Sensor. This Sensor reads the amount of unburned oxygen coming out of your exhaust pipe. The computer then uses this reading to balance the fuel mixture. As oxygen content in the exhaust increases (known as a lean condition) the sensors voltage reading decreases. This signals the computer to increase the amount of fuel the injectors are delivering. In turn the oxygen content in the exhaust decreases (known as a rich condition). The oxygen sensor voltage increases as a result of this richening, and the computer reacts by reducing fuel flow. As fuel quantity decreases we return to a lean mixture, and sensor voltage drops. This process repeats for as long as the engine is running. This continuous feedback loop is the heart of the fuel control system. If your car is running real bad such as a bad spark plug wire, this can affect the oxygen sensor reading going into a lean condition causing your light to come on! In this case, take your car to a mechanic. But if your car seems to be running smooth and your light comes on Then I would suggest using your Amazon Code Reader to clear the code and see if it comes on at a later date.
Now some people will retrieve an oxygen sensor code from their code readers and replace the one which showed up bad. Now 50% of the time this procedure will work and all you have to do is replace the sensor then turn off the light with your code reader and your car is fixed! But as I stated before, if the darn light comes back then go to your mechanic with your retrieved code and inform him you already replaced the oxygen sensor. That will save you money from being ripped off and your letting the mechanic know you have some knowledge of the problem at hand. He will then think twice about scamming you! It will also save you a couple hours worth of labor diagnostic time he will charge you. Oxygen Sensors should be changed out every 60 to 100,000 for better performance and increased gas mileage. After that amount of mileage your Oxygen sensors get slow and sluggish reporting inaccurate readings to your onboard computer.
latest photo of my turbo setup
Guys ,
Long time no post. Last night took a few photo of my turbo setup. You may find evo 4 radiator fan had been replaced my original radiator. And the evo radiator fan can help to save some space that allow to reroute the intercooler piping. And i also build a heat resist cover for the turbo unit to prevent heat splashing.

EVO 4 radiator fan


Long time no post. Last night took a few photo of my turbo setup. You may find evo 4 radiator fan had been replaced my original radiator. And the evo radiator fan can help to save some space that allow to reroute the intercooler piping. And i also build a heat resist cover for the turbo unit to prevent heat splashing.
EVO 4 radiator fan
Diagnostic Code Reader
I just found out Amazon.Comhttp://diagnosecarmisfires.com/ offers the public now their own pocket code readers! Let me tell you a little bit how these work and how these will save you money now and in the future!
Some shops charge over $200 to retrieve your code and then just turn off your "CHECK ENGINE OR SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT". That’s it! That simple. Now if you can buy your own pocket scanner and do it your self each time your “check engine light” comes on, you already did the work and you know what number code to give to the mechanic. You just saved $200! After you retrieve the code then you hit the reset button and the light goes off again. Its that simple.
The reason they charge you so much for this quick test is they invest 6 0r 7 thousand dollars in a expensive scanner which does the following and a lot more and they also have to pay the mechanic to perform this small procedure. Their scanners do the same thing as this pocket scanner as far as extracting a code and resetting it. So if you walk or call in your codes retrieved from your pocket scanner you save yourself some valuable time and a lot less worrying.
You will have an idea what is wrong before going to a mechanic, and avoid being ripped-off! If you do your own repairs, you can avoid buying costly parts you don't really need.
After reading out the error codes, you can use that information to fix your car and turn off the check-engine light easily using the ACTRON CP9125 POCKET SCAN CODE READER
After fixing the original cause of the problem, your car may still stay in "limp" mode. In other words, it won't run right because it still "remembers" the problem. Using the ACTRON CP9125 POCKET SCAN CODE READER
to clear the errors and the check-engine light restores the car to normal operation after carrying out your repairs.
If the light wont erase itself then you have what they refer to as a "hard code". And you should consult your nearest auto mechanic. A lot of times you will have an intermittent problem of which your cars computer will pick up and turn that light on unexpectedly. You can then erase it yourself and turn off the light. If the same code reappears within a few days then you should take your record of codes to the auto repair shop and discuss that code or codes with your auto mechanic. It’s the new way for a do it yourselfer to save money these days.
So click on the Amazon Link code I placed on this Post and get yours today! These little gadgets also makes great gifts for friends and family members who it seems are always having car problems! I have one in my own glove Box! These are great to have at your finger tips! HAPPY DRIVING!
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